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  1. #81
    Super Moderator josta59's Avatar
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    Heh, yes. I asked my kids if they had tweezers they didn't need, and they gave me those. From a toy veterinarian kit, I think. But they work fine.

  2. #82
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    Got the wheels on. I can't use my spray primer until this snow goes away.

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    These also came with tops, but they don't quite fit because the drivers' heads stick out of the car. On all the pictures I see of these scout cars, the only tops are canvas. Not sure how I would affix a cover so that it leaves room for people's heads. Don't know what MiniFigs intended for those. But I don't need them anyway.

  3. #83
    Super Moderator josta59's Avatar
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    My only disappointment with these cars is that they didn't come with machine guns. MiniFigs doesn't have pictures of these cars on their website, so I wasn't sure what I'd be getting. Their technical has a machine gun, but these don't. So I have to imagine them.

  4. #84
    Super Moderator josta59's Avatar
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    The snow melted today, and I found a dry spot on my patio just big enough to use my primer on my cars. I included the covers, since they were there, though I have no plans for them.

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  5. #85
    For the machine guns...you could use toothpicks, and carve them to somewhat the look of a MG; mounted on a piece of toothpick. I've found these remarkably useful.

    Also, on the canvas tops, the look of them indicates crossbars to me, so theoretically, the canvas top is roll-back-able? If that's a useful premise, saw off the front quarter; a little flap of painters tape affixed on the bottom front and then a schmear of super glue; and paint up. Presto-chango, driver's head has a front row seat to potential pigeon poop bombing!!!

    Now if you REALLY want to get crazy, fashioning the MG.... cut a small "V" at the front, center of the cut-off canvas top. Again, a piece of tape tented above the MG; schmear superglue on top for strength; paint; and you have a ready to fire MG peeking out the peak!
    If you can't be a good example, be a horrible warning

  6. #86
    Super Moderator josta59's Avatar
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    Good ideas, thank you!

  7. #87
    Super Moderator josta59's Avatar
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    Ok, this'll do.

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  8. #88
    Very nice! If you're ever in a hobby shop that sells the line, Citadel makes 'washes', that your brush on and seeps into the nooks and crannies...make the pieces look weathered and used! Regardless, they look great!
    If you can't be a good example, be a horrible warning

  9. #89
    Super Moderator josta59's Avatar
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    Thank you! They sure add something to my table. I look forward to seeing them in a town scenario, rolling down the streets.

  10. #90
    Super Moderator josta59's Avatar
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    I hope this doesn't seem too much like boasting, because it's more a mix of astonishment and encouragement to beginning wargamers. Obviously I'm biased, but when I look at the wargame tables of experienced gamers playing in 10mm like me, I'm really surprised to note that their tables often don't look as realistic as mine, even though I'm sure most of them sank much more time and money into them than I did.

    Why do I think they don't look as good? It mostly comes down to basing. I made some non-traditional choices, but very easy and cheap ones, when it came to how my models and terrain would physically meet the "ground." I didn't want a lot of strange basing that subtracts from the realism.

    Here are the choices I made that I don't see more experienced 10mm gamers doing:

    1. Permanently installed hills and trees. I don't like how most trees and hills look on wargaming tables. Trees with bases look very unnatural, and so many gamers put four or five trees together and call it woods. And their hills look weird because they don't look like part of the landscape around them.

    Making them look more real probably means you need to install them permanently. This means either using the same terrain configuration for every game, or making your table modular, like I did. My table has multiple panels that I can fit together in a variety of ways. I have a permanent woods panel and a permanent hill panel, and they can be in different places every game, or not included. I "planted" my trees by literally digging holes into my panels and sticking them in, never to come out again. It was super easy, and yet it looks far better than most trees I see on other tables.

    For my hill panel, it was important to me that it looked like part of the landscape. So I simply used the same material I used for the surface of all the other panels and put clay and paper under it to make a hill tall and flat enough to be useful for gaming. I haven't seen anyone else do this, and yet it's my favorite hill of any I've seen. And so easy!

    2. Didn't base my 10mm infantry. This might be the most unusual choice I made. I don't have experience with 10mm figures from other makers, but mine from Irregular Miniatures were already sitting on tiny bases when they arrived. Most gamers make bases for four or five figures when they're playing in 10mm, but I wanted my games to be very flexible, so I chose not to. And the table looks much more real, as a result.

    3. Didn't base my vehicles. This is a funny one to me. You can give me practical reasons why you wouldn't make the choices I made above, but I really don't understand why everyone puts their vehicles on bases. It seems totally unnecessary to me, and it disrupts the terrain in weird ways.

    I hope people aren't bothered by this post. I'm really trying to help. I had no idea when I finally decided to make a table with as little money and time as possible that it would end up being one of the most realistic 10mm tables I've seen, especially with figures and vehicles on it, since they're unbased. If I can do it, literally anyone can. I hope this is helpful.

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